If anyone has the Ultimate Dossier on Ladakh, it is Parvez Dewan, after years of running about India's Northern-most region, administering and adventuring his way around its desert plains, passes and lakes. Along the way, he discovered that Kargil and Leh had large Buddha sculpture carved into the mountainside, and noticed that the `world's purest Aryans,' the Drokpas, weren't amused by suggestions that there was mass kissing at their festivals and taught himself polo on the endless Kargyak Plains - the highest inhabited place, in the world. Parvez started the Ladakh Festival, threw open to tourists seven hitherto `forbidden' areas (but got bounced back from Siachen), developed an admiration for the history, culture and people of the Pak Occupied Gilgit-Baltistan-Hunza region, introduced the Suru Valley and Goshan Murad Bagh to the international media, and waited for weeks to sight the Snow Leopard. He was luckier with the Wild Ass, Brahmini Ducks and Black Necked Cranes, though.